Time at JLM Shop:
Happy New year. We are back and clearing backorders from the holiday break.

Regurgitator Kit

Regurgitator Kit
  • Click to enlarge
Built and Tested (Required)
Input (Required)
Opamp (Required)
Output (Required)

5.0 average, based on 1 reviews

$27.50AUD inc GST for Australian Customers
(Approx $18.22USD outside Australia)
Change currency to see all prices including options in your preferred currency.

Product Information
Stock Level7

Regurgitator PCB can convert any balanced or unbalanced signal in to balanced or unbalanced signal out with trim pot control from -10db loss to +18db gain.

PCB comes as 8 x V groove snapable PCBs in one with side power connections already joined between the 8 PCB's.

We can sell the PCBs still joined in 1 to 8 multiples. Single PCB measures 58.2mm (2.3") x 25.4mm (1")

Current Draw per Regurgitator channel

  • NE5532A +/-18vdc is 8mA or 20mA with 18v zeners fitted
  • OPA2604A +/-24vdc is 12mA or 25mA with 24v zeners fitted

Build thread here

Regurgitator Audio circuit by Rob Squire. Power circuit & PCB by Joe Malone.

Rob's test figures using a 5532 on +/-18V rail

Max balanced output is +29dBu or +26dBm
Noise when trimmed for unity gain is -93dBu unweighted ( this is on the bench with no case and there is a small amount of 50Hz being picked up )
Noise when trimmed for +18dB gain is -73dBu unweighted ( as above )
Noise when trimmed for -10dB gain is -102dBu ( this is the limit of my analyser )
Distortion at unity gain and +10dBu out is 0.002% ( this is the limit of my analyser )
CMRR is -70dBu at unity gain of test unit with normal 1% resistors.
Input Z balanced is 15K and unbalanced is exactly 7.5K looking into either the hot or cold leg.
So this achieves the aim of high CMRR and impedance balanced input. Unlike a normal diff amp where the input Z is different into each leg.


Customer Reviews

Average Rating: 5

Brilliant product

Hey folks, Jo & Rob hit a winner here for me. I can't speak highly enough of this kit and how easy it was to build and integrate in to my desk. I used 2 of these kits to build in a balanced master buss snd and rtn in my old Trident desk. Although it had one, it was unbalanced, which on my cable runs we're no problem, but given there is always a desire to make the studio 10 times bigger, I knew I wanted to run the signal over a longer wire, and all my outboard gear is balanced to, so it's just easier. The wide operating voltage of this is A1 , it allowed me to tap directy in to the main powersupply rails of the desk, no separate power supply needed for these kits. A few wiring mods later, and I have stereo balanced send and return on my master buss. Adding to that, it makes it more compatible with my range of outboard gear, as I run some newer digital stuff which can have fairly low impedence in a chain with some older analog stuff with much higher impedences and lower signal voltages. I can absolutely slam these units by using extremely high outputs from my Otari to get tape compression on the master bus, and I just can't drive these things in to any nasty sort of zone, it's almost DC to daylight :-) No noise, no ground hum, nothing!! Just my music. I can jack bantams in and out of the patch bay all day long trying to listen for any signal degradation, and I just cant!!! As with all JLM stuff, clever component orientation means you need a nice fine tipped temperature controlled iron. Try substituting some of Jo's caps with some of your fav's, I messed around with some Nichicons and some of the old blue Philips caps I had previously taken out of the desk, some nice results. In the end I used a combo of my own cap choice with some of Jo's to get a sweet result. (Thu Apr 26 2012, 22:09 pm )

Write Review

Anti-Spam Test
Please enter a valid email address.
This field is required.


© 2001-2021. All rights reserved.