Go Between and Go Between Plus kit BUILD THREAD
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Go Between and Go Between Plus kit BUILD THREAD
This kit provides a quick and easy way to add 48v phantom power, 20dB PAD, Phase reverse & Input transformer to help rack API & Quad8 etc amp cards or add these extra features to mic pres without them. Also has a IDC connected for adding the JLM Active DI kit in seconds. Go between Plus PCB can take all the input transformers that Baby Animal and Dual 99v PCB's can take and has input & output ratio jumpers as well as places for Rload, Cload, Rzobel, Czobel parts on the PCB. Transformer secondary is available on the output terminal as a floating balanced signal which can be strapped to unbalanced as well.
Build GO Between PCB exactly as overlay shows.
Build from the lowest height component to the highest. eg Resistors, Terminals, IDC10 header, 10uF cap, Switches.
When fitting the switches just solder one leg first so the switches can be lined up in a neat row before soldering all switch legs.
LED solders to the top 2 switch legs of the 48v switch with the Anode long leg closest to the edge of the PCB.
Resistor in red oval is the LED resistor and can have its value changed if using a different LED.
If not using DI kit fit 2 jumpers in header as PCB overlay shows.
GO Between PCB Schematic here
GO Between PCB Parts list here
Build Go Between Plus exactly as overlay shows.
Build from the lowest height component to the highest. eg Resistors, Terminals, IDC10 header, 10uF cap, Switches, Transformer.
When fitting the switches just solder one leg first so the switches can be lined up in a neat row before soldering all switch legs.
LED solders to the top 2 switch legs of the 48v switch with the Anode long leg closest to the edge of the PCB.
The 6k8 Resistor closest to the edge of the PCB is the LED resistor and can have its value changed if using a different LED.
If not using DI kit fit 2 jumpers in header as PCB overlay shows.
Panel Mounting details :- 3 x 6.3mm holes in a row spaced at 11.75mm from centre of each switch (PCB 32.5mm x 68mm)
Go Between Plus PCB can direct fit transformers listed below and many more
JLM14
Up to 8mm threaded bolt mount
1.2" round or Square with pcb pinout like CAPI EA2622, JT16A, JT115K etc
Lundhal LL1538, LL1538XL LL1578, LL1578XL
OEP262 series with or without Mu can
VTX101 series with or without Mu can
GO Between Plus PCB Schematic here
GO Between Plus PCB parts list here
Now Available on the website here
Joe
JLM Audio
Capturing Audio without Injury
JLM Audio
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Re: Go Between Plus kit Now Available
Hi to all.
I' ve got 4 gobetweens with oep and I was thinking cloning some api or quad8 (don't know if it is even possible about the q8's) to join them together. So, what am I looking for aside from the original modules?
Any help would be appreciated.
regards,
adriano
I' ve got 4 gobetweens with oep and I was thinking cloning some api or quad8 (don't know if it is even possible about the q8's) to join them together. So, what am I looking for aside from the original modules?
Any help would be appreciated.
regards,
adriano
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Re: Go Between Plus kit Now Available
GO between PLUS with OEP transformer and API 325 card or QuadEight CA127, CA227 card etc make great vintage mic pres. Only other parts you need are a power supply and dual 10k rev log pot (wired as 20k rev log) for a gain pot.dribro wrote:Hi to all.
I' ve got 4 gobetweens with oep and I was thinking cloning some api or quad8 (don't know if it is even possible about the q8's) to join them together. So, what am I looking for aside from the original modules?
Any help would be appreciated.
regards,
adriano
Power supply options from us are below and can be found under power supplies on the JLM web shop. The Dual 10k rev log pot can be found under pots on the web shop as well.
One JLM Audio AC/DC kit & JLM Audio world power kit with 2 x 15vac for API or 2 x 12vac wires as 24vac for Quad Eight will run up to 4 mic pres.
One JLM Audio AC/DC kit with a 50VA 2 x 18vac transformer for API and 50VA 2 x 22 to 25vac for Quad Eight can run 8 mic pres.
One Powerstation kit with 80VA can run about 16 mic pres.
www.jlmaudio.com/shop
Joe
JLM Audio
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JLM Audio
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Re: Go Between Plus kit Now Available
Hi,
I've got 2 gobetweens+ with OEPs and recently built other 2 gobetweens+ with JLM14s, all for the 1290s.
The OEP's are tested and work ok.
I have one question before attaching the new ones to the 1290s :
are the JLM14's ok or is it something missing? - (RL,CL,RZ and CZ are Not Fitted right now, InRatio set to Low, OutRatio set to High).
Thanks,
Bogdan
I've got 2 gobetweens+ with OEPs and recently built other 2 gobetweens+ with JLM14s, all for the 1290s.
The OEP's are tested and work ok.
I have one question before attaching the new ones to the 1290s :
are the JLM14's ok or is it something missing? - (RL,CL,RZ and CZ are Not Fitted right now, InRatio set to Low, OutRatio set to High).
Thanks,
Bogdan
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- Joe Malone
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Re: Go Between Plus kit Now Available
The JLM14 does NOT need any ratio jumpers for in and out as they are always 1:4. So do NOT fit any ratio jumpers.bsatriani wrote:Hi,
I've got 2 gobetweens+ with OEPs and recently built other 2 gobetweens+ with JLM14s, all for the 1290s.
The OEP's are tested and work ok.
I have one question before attaching the new ones to the 1290s :
are the JLM14's ok or is it something missing? - (RL,CL,RZ and CZ are Not Fitted right now, InRatio set to Low, OutRatio set to High).
Thanks,
Bogdan
Do NOT connect the black wire on the JLM14 to anything.
1290 module will provide all RL, CL, RZ CZ etc so NONE are needed on the go between plus.
Joe
JLM Audio
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Re: Go Between and Go Between Plus kit BUILD THREAD
newbie question but thats how i learn. i'm building a 2 channel ez1290 (Group DIY project).i dont know how to hook up the phantom power. do i hook up 48V rail to channel 1 then jump it to channel 2? repeating the same with 0V ground ? (parrallel) or do i just split the 48V rail into 2 separate legs? hooking each one up to an individual channel? thanks!
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Re: Go Between and Go Between Plus kit BUILD THREAD
When using the GO Between or GO Between PLUS. You just need to wire the power supply 48v and 0v to the terminal marked 48v and 0v on the go Between. You can star wire or daisy chain either will work fine. All phantom power feeding and extra smoothing is on the Go between kit.flic101 wrote:newbie question but thats how i learn. i'm building a 2 channel ez1290 (Group DIY project).i dont know how to hook up the phantom power. do i hook up 48V rail to channel 1 then jump it to channel 2? repeating the same with 0V ground ? (parrallel) or do i just split the 48V rail into 2 separate legs? hooking each one up to an individual channel? thanks!
Joe
JLM Audio
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JLM Audio
Capturing Audio without Injury
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Re: Go Between and Go Between Plus kit BUILD THREAD
thanks joe. i believe "star wiring" will be easiest. i'll go with that.
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Re: Go Between and Go Between Plus kit BUILD THREAD
The schematic listed for the go between plus is showing the standard go between.......
cheers
Wiz
cheers
Wiz
- Joe Malone
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Re: Go Between and Go Between Plus kit BUILD THREAD
Link fixed in first postWiz wrote:The schematic listed for the go between plus is showing the standard go between.......
cheers
Wiz
http://www.jlmaudio.com/GO%20Between%20 ... ematic.pdf
Joe
JLM Audio
Capturing Audio without Injury
JLM Audio
Capturing Audio without Injury
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Re: Go Between and Go Between Plus kit BUILD THREAD
Hey Joe..........just thought I'd point out that the schematic pdf for the Go-Between is not loading (at least for me anyway)...I get a decryption error. The Go-Between Plus Schematic works ok though.
- Joe Malone
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Re: Go Between and Go Between Plus kit BUILD THREAD
Read hererocksure wrote:Hey Joe..........just thought I'd point out that the schematic pdf for the Go-Between is not loading (at least for me anyway)...I get a decryption error. The Go-Between Plus Schematic works ok though.
http://www.jlmaudio.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=169
Joe
JLM Audio
Capturing Audio without Injury
JLM Audio
Capturing Audio without Injury
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Re: Go Between and Go Between Plus kit BUILD THREAD
Building my second one of these for the 1290 and I blew it, my spacer for the xformer came out as I was soldering, so I lost the 1 mm gap on one side (the side near the "JLM AUDIO" label on the PCB).
I've begun desoldering in order to put that gap in there, but this is going to be very tricky without possibly doing some damage - so -
how important is that 1mm gap?
thanks,
Dan

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