DINGO PCB and kit BUILD THREAD

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jreakee
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Re: DINGO PCB and kit Now Available

Postby jreakee » Thu Jul 01, 2010 4:34 am

thanks Joe!

jreakee
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Re: DINGO PCB and kit Now Available

Postby jreakee » Tue Aug 10, 2010 7:02 pm

Hi Joe,

after some holidays, I wanted to finish the Dingo.

my pcb is a bit different of the one shown on your pictures.
On one side, near DOA I've got 2 place for 24v zener...do I need to fill these?

I must say that I've ordered the 2604 version but now changed my mind and got 2 2050 DOA.
the trouble is that I've got some DOA PCB Socket (Mil-Max) but they seems too large for the holes.
edit: I've got some 322 and it seems that 344 is what I need.
trouble is Farnell don't have them.
http://www.mill-max.com/images/products/pdf/152N.pdf
Mouser have them @ 1,04 € for the gold over nickel finish and 0,437 € for the TIN/LEAD OVER NICKEL plus shipping USA to France 20,00 € :shock: :shock: :shock: .
Digi-key have them too, same price for shipping!


Could you confirm that they should be ok or maybe I can order them from you?

cheers.
Jr.

jreakee
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Re: DINGO PCB and kit Now Available

Postby jreakee » Wed Aug 11, 2010 6:52 pm

ok for info I found them @ futureelectronics.com.
0,3€ per unit.

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Joe Malone
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Re: DINGO PCB and kit Now Available

Postby Joe Malone » Tue Aug 17, 2010 8:13 am

jreakee wrote:Hi Joe,

after some holidays, I wanted to finish the Dingo.

my pcb is a bit different of the one shown on your pictures.
On one side, near DOA I've got 2 place for 24v zener...do I need to fill these?

I must say that I've ordered the 2604 version but now changed my mind and got 2 2050 DOA.
the trouble is that I've got some DOA PCB Socket (Mil-Max) but they seems too large for the holes.
edit: I've got some 322 and it seems that 344 is what I need.
trouble is Farnell don't have them.
http://www.mill-max.com/images/products/pdf/152N.pdf
Mouser have them @ 1,04 € for the gold over nickel finish and 0,437 € for the TIN/LEAD OVER NICKEL plus shipping USA to France 20,00 € :shock: :shock: :shock: .
Digi-key have them too, same price for shipping!


Could you confirm that they should be ok or maybe I can order them from you?

cheers.
Jr.

The latest dingo PCB has positions for 2 x 15v to 24v zeners so it can be run on one 30v or 48v rail like our 48v SMPS supply. This is how we run them in our rack MAC compressor kit. Leave zeners off if running +/-v rails into the dingo. The PCB has no other changes on it.

You need 1mm internal mill max sockets with 1.8mm external size to fit the holes on the dingo PCB. We have a bag of 6 for $6AUD on the web shop. If you order the dingo kit with 99v etc we supply the 1mm sockets as well.
Joe :-)
JLM Audio
Capturing Audio without Injury

jreakee
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Joined: Thu Jun 24, 2010 10:48 pm

Re: DINGO PCB and kit Now Available

Postby jreakee » Wed Aug 18, 2010 6:36 pm

Hi Joe,

thanks for your answers!

- ok I have 2 2050 DOA , they'll be running @ 24v so it seems I don't need the zener!
- finally the company who has the mil-max is out of stock so I ordered 2 bag from you.

thanks again!
Jr.

Mark S
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Re: DINGO PCB and kit Now Available

Postby Mark S » Thu Aug 19, 2010 8:45 am

Hi All,
I am racking up a Neve 83010 micpre/comp/eq. I am at the point where I need to think about how these will interface with the outside world. The
unit is set up for mic/line input (via the supplied Belclere Xformers), a balanced insert send/return, and main output, with a 10k audio taper pot to control the gain. Will the Dingo be able to supply a balanced out (at OdBu),an additional Balanced out (with gain) and an input that unbalances the insert return? I have the 10852 card, but it seems a waste of 1/2 of the card not to mention the extra space (which is at a premium,this thing is very busy inside)and weight. The card should run on the +/- 25 volt rails (Supplied by the JLM 5 rail supply and world power unit). Any clarification will help. Kindof at a stand still till I sort this problem out, any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks......

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Joe Malone
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Re: DINGO PCB and kit Now Available

Postby Joe Malone » Fri Aug 20, 2010 8:49 am

Mark S wrote:Hi All,
I am racking up a Neve 83010 micpre/comp/eq. I am at the point where I need to think about how these will interface with the outside world. The
unit is set up for mic/line input (via the supplied Belclere Xformers), a balanced insert send/return, and main output, with a 10k audio taper pot to control the gain. Will the Dingo be able to supply a balanced out (at OdBu),an additional Balanced out (with gain) and an input that unbalances the insert return? I have the 10852 card, but it seems a waste of 1/2 of the card not to mention the extra space (which is at a premium,this thing is very busy inside)and weight. The card should run on the +/- 25 volt rails (Supplied by the JLM 5 rail supply and world power unit). Any clarification will help. Kindof at a stand still till I sort this problem out, any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks......


HI Mark
Saw your email of this as well. I do not have any info on the Neve 83010 so if you could send me any info you have it would be much clearer to me what you would need. But the dingo only has 2 amp stages on it. Please email any info or schematics you have and i will be able to work out exactly what you need to make this all work.
Joe :-)

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Mark S
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Re: DINGO PCB and kit Now Available

Postby Mark S » Sat Aug 21, 2010 9:14 am

Joe,
Well, its gonna take a bit of doing for the schematics. I have them all, but they are full size blueprint type drawings. I will try to explain this and be as descriptive as possible..... A mic or line input (via Xformer) gets the signals into the unit. The 6 cards that make up the micpre/filter/comp-gate/EQ are all connected to the 90124 channel interconnection card via backplane connections. In my unit, they are wired via cable bundles. The tricky part is where the best place to take the signal to output, as the insert signal can be post or pre EQ. Another consideration is the signal out with no EQ at all.The 10852 output unit has 5 non inverting inputs, the topmost one sees a 1k resistor on the way in,and the 4 below it see a 10k resistance on the way in. All 5 sum together at one point along with another non inverting IP(that does not have a resistor in its path), and then they see a 10uf/25v electrolytic cap, followed by what looks like a diode limiter,(a pair of IN 4148)strapped in series across both inverting(which is the next input) and non inverting inputs. Additionally there is- a 6dB inverting input, a pair of gain boost inputs, and a input return. The card is powered by bipolar 25 volts, the output of the card has a balanced out via the mini toroid 1:1 output transformer as well as an unbalanced output and an output return. The schematic will be a huge help, so I will get you the two most useful ones ,the 90124 interconnection card and the 10852 output unit. again, many thanks...........

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Joe Malone
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Re: DINGO PCB and kit Now Available

Postby Joe Malone » Sat Aug 21, 2010 9:35 am

Mark S wrote:Joe,
Well, its gonna take a bit of doing for the schematics. I have them all, but they are full size blueprint type drawings. I will try to explain this and be as descriptive as possible..... A mic or line input (via Xformer) gets the signals into the unit. The 6 cards that make up the micpre/filter/comp-gate/EQ are all connected to the 90124 channel interconnection card via backplane connections. In my unit, they are wired via cable bundles. The tricky part is where the best place to take the signal to output, as the insert signal can be post or pre EQ. Another consideration is the signal out with no EQ at all.The 10852 output unit has 5 non inverting inputs, the topmost one sees a 1k resistor on the way in,and the 4 below it see a 10k resistance on the way in. All 5 sum together at one point along with another non inverting IP(that does not have a resistor in its path), and then they see a 10uf/25v electrolytic cap, followed by what looks like a diode limiter,(a pair of IN 4148)strapped in series across both inverting(which is the next input) and non inverting inputs. Additionally there is- a 6dB inverting input, a pair of gain boost inputs, and a input return. The card is powered by bipolar 25 volts, the output of the card has a balanced out via the mini toroid 1:1 output transformer as well as an unbalanced output and an output return. The schematic will be a huge help, so I will get you the two most useful ones ,the 90124 interconnection card and the 10852 output unit. again, many thanks...........

Yes I have worked with the huge Neve A blueprints lots. You can take photos of the in and out amp sections and draw a mud map of what you are after for inputs and outputs for the whole project. Or I usually take the blueprints to our local print place and get them put on my USB stick so I can print them here fully or in part in A3 size.
Joe :-)

JLM Audio

Capturing Audio without Injury

pittsburgh
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Re: DINGO PCB and kit Now Available

Postby pittsburgh » Fri Oct 22, 2010 7:30 am

I want to use the dingo kit to implement a Revox B77 1/4" machine as a tape delay into my PT rig. Is it possible to insert a feedback circuit into the dingo kit? Has anyone done something like this before?

-Pittsburgh

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Joe Malone
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Re: DINGO PCB and kit Now Available

Postby Joe Malone » Tue Oct 26, 2010 1:54 pm

pittsburgh wrote:I want to use the dingo kit to implement a Revox B77 1/4" machine as a tape delay into my PT rig. Is it possible to insert a feedback circuit into the dingo kit? Has anyone done something like this before?

-Pittsburgh

Yes easy one to do with just a 5k or 10k linear pot across the dingo unbalance in and out with pot wiper going to the Revox input and the Revox output going to the unbalance dingo in as well. Set the Revox for roughly unity in and out. The pot will give you when fully counterclockwise no feedback single delay. Centre 100% feedback with input signal mix. Fully clockwise 100% feedback with no new input signal added. If you do not want the 100% with no new input just add a resistor equal to the pot value in series with pot wire going to the unbalanced dingo in.

Mention this in the web shop order in the comment box and I will draw it on the dingo circuit and send it with the dingo kit.
Joe :-)

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Gold
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Re: DINGO PCB and kit Now Available

Postby Gold » Wed Apr 20, 2011 9:11 am

I built a some Dingos and am getting a minimum gain of 12dB from the second adjustable stage. Is this correct? If it is correct is there any way to get unity gain?
Paul Gold
Salt Mastering

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Joe Malone
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Re: DINGO PCB and kit Now Available

Postby Joe Malone » Wed Apr 20, 2011 10:50 am

Gold wrote:I built a some Dingos and am getting a minimum gain of 12dB from the second adjustable stage. Is this correct?

Yes with RV2 gain trimpot fitted and wound down to minimum gain. This is because the output amp adds the inverting signal which adds 6dB and fitting the gain pot also add 6dB gain to the output amp stage.

If it is correct is there any way to get unity gain?

Yes for unity in and out. Remove RV2 and change R4 and R6 to 10k. This takes the balanced in signal down 6dB to a normal unbalanced level and the output amp makes up the signal 6dB on the output amp keeping unity and the internal unbalanced levels correct.
Joe :-)

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Gold
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Re: DINGO PCB and kit Now Available

Postby Gold » Wed Apr 20, 2011 11:22 am

Thanks Joe. It turns out I need 11dB of gain. I was playing around with it and changed R16 to 5k1. This puts 11dB somewhere in the middle of the trim pot range. Is this okay? Or would it be better to leave R16 at 20k and change R4 and R6 to 10k for a 6dB drop and leave the output section alone?
Paul Gold
Salt Mastering

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Joe Malone
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Re: DINGO PCB and kit Now Available

Postby Joe Malone » Wed Apr 20, 2011 11:33 am

Gold wrote:Thanks Joe. It turns out I need 11dB of gain. I was playing around with it and changed R16 to 5k1. This puts 11dB somewhere in the middle of the trim pot range. Is this okay? Or would it be better to leave R16 at 20k and change R4 and R6 to 10k for a 6dB drop and leave the output section alone?

Changing R16 is fine. But I am not sure what the unbalanced device is that the dingo is connected too?
But if it is passive then that is usually fine. If it is a active EQ then just need to check that the EQ doesn't clip easy when any frequency is boosted.
It is all to do with headroom. If you need more headroom change R4 & R6to 10k. If headroom is ok then the way you have it is best.
Joe :-)

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