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Baby Animal wiring

Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 1:36 pm
by base
Another one for the stupid questions list:

Was wondering if it is necessary to use shielded cable between my output tranny and the output xlr? If not, do you just use hookup wire and twist the wires together? Twist all three together? Just two of them?

This is really just a curiosity thing, as I've used shielded cable and it is perfectly quiet. Is such a short run of cable with a line level signal going to pick up any noise?

Also, can anyone recommend a source of 2 core shielded cable that is thinner and more flexible than mic cable but thicker and less crappy than the stuff that Jaycar had?

Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 5:52 pm
by chrisp
FWIW I just use a twisted pair - no problems, and I often work in an flourescent light environment.

Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 10:20 pm
by Joe Malone
Was wondering if it is necessary to use shielded cable between my output tranny and the output xlr? If not, do you just use hookup wire and twist the wires together? Twist all three together? Just two of them?

This is really just a curiosity thing, as I've used shielded cable and it is perfectly quiet. Is such a short run of cable with a line level signal going to pick up any noise?
The output impedance is so low that twisting the balanced out wires together is fine. No sheilded wiring is needed. Even the BA input wiring in our BA2 and BA4 latest kits have a 10pin IDC cable that goes from the input XLR to DI to BA and as long as the long run to the back panel is twisted as well is work perfectly and makes the BA wiring minimal and super easy.

Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 11:13 pm
by base
Thanks gents.

Joe, does that mean I should have put some twists in the ribbon cable between the xlr IN and DI?

Cheers

Andrew

Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 11:26 pm
by Joe Malone
Joe, does that mean I should have put some twists in the ribbon cable between the XLR IN and DI?
It will work fine without twisting but to be 100% unplugging the IDC connector at the back XLR IO PCB and twisting the cable a few turns and an plugging the IDC connector back in will have you sorted. The BA2 and BA4 cases is mostly steel so offer very good sheilding already.

Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 11:29 pm
by base
Thanks Joe. Even without the twists it's perfectly quiet. The self noise of my crusty P bass is far worse.

Posted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 10:37 am
by base
By the way Joe, did you get my email? I'm after another kit, BA4 this time. Cheers, Andrew

Re: Baby Animal wiring

Posted: Fri Nov 26, 2010 11:23 am
by kirkwylde
Hi All,

Could anyone explain exactly how the wiring overlay diagram works with regard to:

1. The green wire from the lug on the gain knob- I assume it is connected to 0V which is the centre connection on the rear of the BA PCB.

2. I believe that all the connections for the XLR input are now made using just the ribbon cables (on the newest kits)? SO I can disregard the blue/white wires on the overlay diagram?

3. Where exactly do the yellow and green wires from MS+ and MS- connect? It looks as though the yellow (MS+) goes to the first BA PCB on the "top" (+V) terminal of the nearest PCB then I run another one from there to the same point on the second PCB. Then I wire the green (MS-) to 0V (the centre connection described in point 1) and then run it from there to the same point on the next PCB?

4. Finally, I am totally confused about the "Green wire to Output XLR pin 1" and "Shield wire to Input XLR pin 1" connections...help??? That whole area of the diagram escapes this obvious newbie!!! It just seems that that 0V point on the back of the board is rather busy!

Any assistance will be so greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Luke