Page 1 of 3

Go Between and Go Between Plus kit BUILD THREAD

Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2007 11:01 pm
by Joe Malone
Image

This kit provides a quick and easy way to add 48v phantom power, 20dB PAD, Phase reverse & Input transformer to help rack API & Quad8 etc amp cards or add these extra features to mic pres without them. Also has a IDC connected for adding the JLM Active DI kit in seconds. Go between Plus PCB can take all the input transformers that Baby Animal and Dual 99v PCB's can take and has input & output ratio jumpers as well as places for Rload, Cload, Rzobel, Czobel parts on the PCB. Transformer secondary is available on the output terminal as a floating balanced signal which can be strapped to unbalanced as well.

Build GO Between PCB exactly as overlay shows.
Build from the lowest height component to the highest. eg Resistors, Terminals, IDC10 header, 10uF cap, Switches.
When fitting the switches just solder one leg first so the switches can be lined up in a neat row before soldering all switch legs.
LED solders to the top 2 switch legs of the 48v switch with the Anode long leg closest to the edge of the PCB.
Resistor in red oval is the LED resistor and can have its value changed if using a different LED.
If not using DI kit fit 2 jumpers in header as PCB overlay shows.
Image

Image

GO Between PCB Schematic here
GO Between PCB Parts list here

Build Go Between Plus exactly as overlay shows.
Build from the lowest height component to the highest. eg Resistors, Terminals, IDC10 header, 10uF cap, Switches, Transformer.
When fitting the switches just solder one leg first so the switches can be lined up in a neat row before soldering all switch legs.
LED solders to the top 2 switch legs of the 48v switch with the Anode long leg closest to the edge of the PCB.
The 6k8 Resistor closest to the edge of the PCB is the LED resistor and can have its value changed if using a different LED.
If not using DI kit fit 2 jumpers in header as PCB overlay shows.
Image

GO Between Plus PCB Schematic here
GO Between Plus PCB parts list here

Now Available on the website here

Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2007 5:51 pm
by Barney
I was wondering what board Rob was using in the qaud eight box on his recent projects page was, all revealed now.

keep up the good work.

Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 6:38 pm
by squib
well, kind of. I have been using the front end cut off some baby animal pcbs from which i'd previously used the amp sections as balanced line drivers. These new go-betweens are essentially the same thing, but with the connection points presented nicely.

Joe does it again!

Rob

Re: Go Between Plus kit Now Available

Posted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:37 pm
by dribro
Hi to all.

I' ve got 4 gobetweens with oep and I was thinking cloning some api or quad8 (don't know if it is even possible about the q8's) to join them together. So, what am I looking for aside from the original modules?
Any help would be appreciated.

regards,
adriano

Re: Go Between Plus kit Now Available

Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 12:21 pm
by Joe Malone
dribro wrote:Hi to all.

I' ve got 4 gobetweens with oep and I was thinking cloning some api or quad8 (don't know if it is even possible about the q8's) to join them together. So, what am I looking for aside from the original modules?
Any help would be appreciated.

regards,
adriano
GO between PLUS with OEP transformer and API 325 card or QuadEight CA127, CA227 card etc make great vintage mic pres. Only other parts you need are a power supply and dual 10k rev log pot (wired as 20k rev log) for a gain pot.

Power supply options from us are below and can be found under power supplies on the JLM web shop. The Dual 10k rev log pot can be found under pots on the web shop as well.

One JLM Audio AC/DC kit & JLM Audio world power kit with 2 x 15vac for API or 2 x 12vac wires as 24vac for Quad Eight will run up to 4 mic pres.
One JLM Audio AC/DC kit with a 50VA 2 x 18vac transformer for API and 50VA 2 x 22 to 25vac for Quad Eight can run 8 mic pres.
One Powerstation kit with 80VA can run about 16 mic pres.

www.jlmaudio.com/shop

Re: Go Between Plus kit Now Available

Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 1:34 am
by bsatriani
Hi,
I've got 2 gobetweens+ with OEPs and recently built other 2 gobetweens+ with JLM14s, all for the 1290s.
The OEP's are tested and work ok.

I have one question before attaching the new ones to the 1290s :
are the JLM14's ok or is it something missing? - (RL,CL,RZ and CZ are Not Fitted right now, InRatio set to Low, OutRatio set to High).

Thanks,
Bogdan
gobet+ top view 1.JPG
gobet+ bottom view.JPG

Re: Go Between Plus kit Now Available

Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 5:00 pm
by Joe Malone
bsatriani wrote:Hi,
I've got 2 gobetweens+ with OEPs and recently built other 2 gobetweens+ with JLM14s, all for the 1290s.
The OEP's are tested and work ok.

I have one question before attaching the new ones to the 1290s :
are the JLM14's ok or is it something missing? - (RL,CL,RZ and CZ are Not Fitted right now, InRatio set to Low, OutRatio set to High).

Thanks,
Bogdan
gobet+ top view 1.JPG
gobet+ bottom view.JPG
The JLM14 does NOT need any ratio jumpers for in and out as they are always 1:4. So do NOT fit any ratio jumpers.

Do NOT connect the black wire on the JLM14 to anything.

1290 module will provide all RL, CL, RZ CZ etc so NONE are needed on the go between plus.

Re: Go Between and Go Between Plus kit BUILD THREAD

Posted: Sat Feb 23, 2013 7:35 am
by flic101
newbie question but thats how i learn. i'm building a 2 channel ez1290 (Group DIY project).i dont know how to hook up the phantom power. do i hook up 48V rail to channel 1 then jump it to channel 2? repeating the same with 0V ground ? (parrallel) or do i just split the 48V rail into 2 separate legs? hooking each one up to an individual channel? thanks!

Re: Go Between and Go Between Plus kit BUILD THREAD

Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 5:29 pm
by Joe Malone
flic101 wrote:newbie question but thats how i learn. i'm building a 2 channel ez1290 (Group DIY project).i dont know how to hook up the phantom power. do i hook up 48V rail to channel 1 then jump it to channel 2? repeating the same with 0V ground ? (parrallel) or do i just split the 48V rail into 2 separate legs? hooking each one up to an individual channel? thanks!
When using the GO Between or GO Between PLUS. You just need to wire the power supply 48v and 0v to the terminal marked 48v and 0v on the go Between. You can star wire or daisy chain either will work fine. All phantom power feeding and extra smoothing is on the Go between kit.

Re: Go Between and Go Between Plus kit BUILD THREAD

Posted: Wed Feb 27, 2013 11:12 am
by flic101
thanks joe. i believe "star wiring" will be easiest. i'll go with that.

Re: Go Between and Go Between Plus kit BUILD THREAD

Posted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 9:14 am
by Wiz
The schematic listed for the go between plus is showing the standard go between.......


cheers

Wiz

Re: Go Between and Go Between Plus kit BUILD THREAD

Posted: Wed Aug 28, 2013 10:42 am
by Joe Malone
Wiz wrote:The schematic listed for the go between plus is showing the standard go between.......


cheers

Wiz
Link fixed in first post
http://www.jlmaudio.com/GO%20Between%20 ... ematic.pdf

Re: Go Between and Go Between Plus kit BUILD THREAD

Posted: Fri Aug 30, 2013 8:01 pm
by rocksure
Hey Joe..........just thought I'd point out that the schematic pdf for the Go-Between is not loading (at least for me anyway)...I get a decryption error. The Go-Between Plus Schematic works ok though.

Re: Go Between and Go Between Plus kit BUILD THREAD

Posted: Fri Aug 30, 2013 8:28 pm
by Joe Malone
rocksure wrote:Hey Joe..........just thought I'd point out that the schematic pdf for the Go-Between is not loading (at least for me anyway)...I get a decryption error. The Go-Between Plus Schematic works ok though.
Read here
http://www.jlmaudio.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=169

Re: Go Between and Go Between Plus kit BUILD THREAD

Posted: Sat Oct 05, 2013 8:23 am
by friesdan
photopen.png
photo 1.JPG
Hey Joe,
Building my second one of these for the 1290 and I blew it, my spacer for the xformer came out as I was soldering, so I lost the 1 mm gap on one side (the side near the "JLM AUDIO" label on the PCB).
I've begun desoldering in order to put that gap in there, but this is going to be very tricky without possibly doing some damage - so -
how important is that 1mm gap?
thanks,
Dan