VUPPM500 KIT Build Thread

[Joe Malone]

VUPPM500 KIT Build Thread

PCB Component Build maps

Display PCB
http://jlmaudio.com/builds/maps/VUPPM50 ... y_map.html

MAIN CPU PCB
http://jlmaudio.com/builds/maps/VUPPM500_map.html

500 EDGE PCB
http://jlmaudio.com/builds/maps/VUPPM50 ... nalog.html

500 EDGE PCB DIGITAL ADD ON OPTION (Build and test VUPPM500 as analog first then add on digital option)
http://jlmaudio.com/builds/maps/VUPPM50 ... gital.html

Test procedure Analog input
Plug in built VUPPM500 module.
Press Meter Mode and Peak Mode together to go into led test mode. This shows all green then all orange and then all red.
Press peak reset to set brightness level to LOW, MEDIUM, HIGH.
Press either Meter Mode and Peak Mode to leave led test mode.
Send in 1k tone at 0dFS or +18dBu to 500 Input for left and Output for right.
Set mode to VUPPM mode RED PPM with GREEN VU over the top.
Adjust Left and Right level trimpots so left and right 40th red led just light.
Adjust Left and Right VU/PPM trimpots so left and right green led just light. (40th led may make yellow depending on peak mode)

Test procedure Digital input
Plug in built VUPPM500 module.
Press Meter Mode and Peak Mode together to go into led test mode. This shows all green then all orange and then all red.
Press peak reset to set brightness level to LOW, MEDIUM, HIGH.
Press either Meter Mode and Peak Mode to leave led test mode.
Send in AES/EBU 1k tone at 0dFS into 500 Input.
Set mode to VUPPM mode RED PPM with GREEN VU over the top.
Adjust Left and Right level trimpots so left and right 40th red led just light.
Adjust Left and Right VU/PPM trimpots so left and right green led just light. (40th led may make yellow depending on peak mode)

[kante1603]

Wonderfull,Joe!
Looking forward to see the AES/SPDIF options.
Is it possible to build it analogue and add digital input-cards(?) later?

Best regards from munich,

Udo.

[Joe Malone]

Wonderfull,Joe!
Looking forward to see the AES/SPDIF options.
Is it possible to build it analogue and add digital input-cards(?) later?

Best regards from munich,

Udo.

HI Udo
Yes the VUPPM500 edge card pcb can have the AES/EBU card and a few resistors added later to convert it.

The module is just a generic toslink / spdif to stereo analog out pcb with the AES/EBU input resistor mod on the edge pcb. I have the modules here but just have to pack the kits which will be somewhere between $25 to $30 for the add on parts and module.

[VH5150]

Thanks for the add Joe!

I'm currently putting together the first of 2 VUPPM500 modules. I've assembled all of the PCB's but haven't put it together yet. A couple of questions:

1. When connecting the LED PCB to the MAIN PCB, do you recommend using excess leads from resistors to connect it together or will just putting it perpendicular and soldering the joint together sufficient?

2. Is this compatible with the Purple Sweet 10 with the additional IN/OUT? I mainly wanted to use this on my external summing mixer that has 2 separate stereo busses and wanted to pass audio through this as the last unit before going into the A/D. If not, how do you recommend connecting this? Using a half-normal connection or a splitter of some sort at the end?

3. If I add the AES/EBU card, does this replace the analog Input completely?

Thanks!

Will

[VH5150]

So the unit is built, but it looks like it's only outputting signal to the left meter. When I try to go into test mode it doesn't seem to do anything. Also when pressing the middle and right switches (peak switches) it doesn't appear to do anything either. Any thoughts on what went wrong? Going to go through all the solder joints and double check components to see if I missed anything.

Also for the right input, I'm just using a male to TRS cable to plug into the output of my Apollo 8. Is that potentially the issue also?

[VH5150]

Oops, I think I figured it out. When joining the LED PCB to the MAIN PCB I only soldered together one side. For some reason I wasn't thinking and thought it was for just holding it together, but it actually is to connect all the components and LEDs. Go figure when building it at 1am. Will bridge the other side tomorrow and get this fixed!

[Joe Malone]

Thanks for the add Joe!

I'm currently putting together the first of 2 VUPPM500 modules. I've assembled all of the PCB's but haven't put it together yet. A couple of questions:

OK cool

1. When connecting the LED PCB to the MAIN PCB, do you recommend using excess leads from resistors to connect it together or will just putting it perpendicular and soldering the joint together sufficient?

Only solder no need for leads to be added.

2. Is this compatible with the Purple Sweet 10 with the additional IN/OUT? I mainly wanted to use this on my external summing mixer that has 2 separate stereo busses and wanted to pass audio through this as the last unit before going into the A/D. If not, how do you recommend connecting this? Using a half-normal connection or a splitter of some sort at the end?

It lines up with XLR in for Left and XLR out for Right. But you can easy add 4 jumper wires on the holes near the edge connector to do roughly what you want in the sweet 10 rack. If you link pin 2 to 3 and pin 4 to 6 and pin 7 to 8 and pin 9 to 10. Then you can use XLR in and out TRS in and in TRS out and out XLR out if you see what I mean. So basically A & B input will loop and A & B output will loop.

3. If I add the AES/EBU card, does this replace the analog Input completely?

Yes build fully analog and fully test before any conversion to digital input. You cannot at present switch between Analog & Digital

[Joe Malone]

Oops, I think I figured it out. When joining the LED PCB to the MAIN PCB I only soldered together one side. For some reason I wasn't thinking and thought it was for just holding it together, but it actually is to connect all the components and LEDs. Go figure when building it at 1am. Will bridge the other side tomorrow and get this fixed!

Yes solder both sides and check all solder joints look smooth and connected.

Let me know if you have any issues

[VH5150]

Success! Now I just need to calibrate it.

Also with respect to passing through audio and have it have both input & output. Is it possible to do this on a normal VPR Rack like a CAPI 511-VPR?

Thanks for your help!

[Joe Malone]

Success! Now I just need to calibrate it.

Also with respect to passing through audio and have it have both input & output. Is it possible to do this on a normal VPR Rack like a CAPI 511-VPR?

Thanks for your help!

CAPI rack only has XLR in and out so needs reverse XLR cable into the out to use it as right in. Or if you have DB25 version you can do the same.

You can just use a couple of Y cables. Or look at our Eleven rack as they can use XLR, TRS and DB25 tascom in and out all at the same time to do exactly what you want.

[Joe Malone]

Success! Now I just need to calibrate it.

Also with respect to passing through audio and have it have both input & output. Is it possible to do this on a normal VPR Rack like a CAPI 511-VPR?

Thanks for your help!

Cool great to hear you got it working

CAPI rack only has XLR in and out so needs reverse XLR cable into the out to use it as right in. Or if you have DB25 version you can do the same.

You can just use a couple of Y cables. Or look at our Eleven rack as they can use XLR, TRS and DB25 tascom in and out all at the same time to do exactly what you want.

[VH5150]

Both have been built and calibrated successfully! The build is pretty simple, even without step by step instructions. Ran into a few snags on the first build but the 2nd one was much faster to assemble. A couple of pointers:

Display PCB
1. Long lead of the LEDs go through the pad with a square.
2. Switches should be flush to the PCB, found it easier to force in the top pegs first, then then bottom pegs. Whatever method works is fine.
3. I found it easier to assemble the whole PCB in its entirety (including screwing on the front panels) then solder everything together. This made it easier to make sure the blue LEDs were flush to the front panel and also to hold the 8 multicolor LEDs together without having to check alignment/fit.

Edge PCB
1. For the voltage regulator I just bent the leads first then screwed it to the PCB. Added all other components then soldered all at once.

Main PCB.
1. Make sure the two small yellow 1uF capacitors go where the CPU is.
2. Pin Sockets - Solder the square pad, adjust properly, then solder the rest of the pins.
3. When joining the main PCB to the Display PCB, make sure to solder both sides.

Test/Calibration
1. I found it easier to set the level at around 75% instead of at 0dfs so I could visually see which direction the meter was going when turning the trim knobs. Once I figured out the correct way to rotate, I put it back to 0dfs and then calibrated according to Joe's instructions.

[Joe Malone]

Both have been built and calibrated successfully! The build is pretty simple, even without step by step instructions. Ran into a few snags on the first build but the 2nd one was much faster to assemble. A couple of pointers:

Display PCB
1. Long lead of the LEDs go through the pad with a square.
2. Switches should be flush to the PCB, found it easier to force in the top pegs first, then then bottom pegs. Whatever method works is fine.
3. I found it easier to assemble the whole PCB in its entirety (including screwing on the front panels) then solder everything together. This made it easier to make sure the blue LEDs were flush to the front panel and also to hold the 8 multicolor LEDs together without having to check alignment/fit.

Edge PCB
1. For the voltage regulator I just bent the leads first then screwed it to the PCB. Added all other components then soldered all at once.

Main PCB.
1. Make sure the two small yellow 1uF capacitors go where the CPU is.
2. Pin Sockets - Solder the square pad, adjust properly, then solder the rest of the pins.
3. When joining the main PCB to the Display PCB, make sure to solder both sides.

Test/Calibration
1. I found it easier to set the level at around 75% instead of at 0dfs so I could visually see which direction the meter was going when turning the trim knobs. Once I figured out the correct way to rotate, I put it back to 0dfs and then calibrated according to Joe's instructions.

Cool thanks for the helpful extra info. I will add some of this to the first post to help others Thanks again.

[Decibeldude]

Hi guys! My DIY built meter has fast ballistics on the left and slow on the right, in the Green over red mode. Looks like just the red segments have the issue.


Can anyone suggest what I should check?

[Joe Malone]

Hi guys! My DIY built meter has fast ballistics on the left and slow on the right, in the Green over red mode. Looks like just the red segments have the issue.


Can anyone suggest what I should check?

Copy of my reply to your email
Can you put in a 1khz tone to light up all but last led and turn tone on and off in a video so I can see true attack and decay of both VU & PPM?

Can you send me a clear in focus well lit photos of the top and bottom of the pcb.

It is worth cleaning the bottom of the pcb with isopropyl alcohol and an old toothbrush to remove any solder rosin as this can cause problems