JLM AUDIO

Hi!

I ordered a power-switch (set) from you a couple a months ago.
The In4007 was missing.

Is it obsolete or should I replace it?

Thanks!

G-Sun wrote:Hi!

I ordered a power-switch (set) from you a couple a months ago.
The In4007 was missing.

Is it obsolete or should I replace it?

Thanks!

Yes as I replied in your email. The 1N4007 is not used when switching DC.All of our kits switch DC so we do not include the 1N4007.
Only fit a 1N4007 if switching AC to protect the LED

Sorry, haven't got any email from you..

Thanks!

So, how/where is the switch supposed to be wired?
I was planning on switching AC between inlet/fuse and Power-transformer.
Then going to a powerstation.

Geir

BTW: You really have a lot of nice stuff in your shop for dIY'ers. Seems like top quality and functionality to me

So, how/where is the switch supposed to be wired?
I was planning on switching AC between inlet/fuse and Power-transformer.
Then going to a powerstation.

If switching 110v to 230v mains wire Active to fuse then +in on power switch PCB and Neutral to -in on power switch PCB. Wire +sw to Active on power transformer and -sw to Neutral on power transformer. Change 10k to 47k 1watt for 110V and 100k 1watt for 230v. Fitted 1N4007 diode. (If using on mains we change the LED to a high brightness type so we can use 100k on 110v and 220k on 230v so normal 0.5w resistors can be used and not run hot and have good LED brightness.)

You can switch the secondary of the transformer centre tapped or not as well the same way with 1N4007 fitted but resistor needed to be scaled to the secondary volts. R = total vac switched / 0.005A

BTW: You really have a lot of nice stuff in your shop for dIY'ers. Seems like top quality and functionality to me

Joe Malone wrote: If switching 110v to 230v mains wire Active to fuse then +in on power switch PCB and Neutral to -in on power switch PCB. Wire +sw to Active on power transformer and -sw to Neutral on power transformer. Change 10k to 47k 1watt for 110V and 100k 1watt for 230v. Fitted 1N4007 diode. (If using on mains we change the LED to a high brightness type so we can use 100k on 110v and 220k on 230v so normal 0.5w resistors can be used and not run hot and have good LED brightness.)

You can switch the secondary of the transformer centre tapped or not as well the same way with 1N4007 fitted but resistor needed to be scaled to the secondary volts. R = total vac switched / 0.005A

Ahh.. what a mess. I've already ordered the 1N4007 but had now clue I would need a 100k/1W as well.
And my led looks like a pilot-light type, not a led like on the current picture. But that's maybe just the housing?
The resistor that came with your kit is 10k/0,25W.

My VAC is 230V, secondary +-18V. So that means I can use 7,2k/?W if switching the secondaries (taking the +- then, not the center-taps?)
Wouldn't it be better practice to switch the 230V than the secondaries?

I have some 470k/0,25W, can I use it for the 230V?
And +-18VAC: Can I use 6,8k/0,25W or 10k/0,25W ?

Wouldn't it be a good idea to write this info on the product-page?

Thanks!

Ahh.. what a mess. I've already ordered the 1N4007 but had now clue I would need a 100k/1W as well.
And my led looks like a pilot-light type, not a led like on the current picture. But that's maybe just the housing?
The resistor that came with your kit is 10k/0,25W.

First you need to know the specs on the LED/LAMP you have picked to see if it can possibly even work?
(Most large bezels we fit with white 10mm high brightness led so it will run as discussed in above post)

My VAC is 230V, secondary +-18V.
Wouldn't it be better practice to switch the 230V than the secondaries?

yes if the power transformer is internal but most vintage mic pre builds that have input audio transformers need the power transformer to be external so they do not inject hum. So the switching is often after the power transformer like when wall wart or plug packs are used.

I have some 470k/0,25W, can I use it?

No idea as I have no idea on what this new pilot lamp/led thing you are using is?

Wouldn't it be a good idea to write this info on the product-page?

No info usually makes people ask first if it will do what they want so we can then tailor there kit to suit there exact needs for free. As switching a power led/lamp across all AC, DC and different voltages will always need different setups or solutions due to the huge possible combinations.

Thanks!

Joe Malone wrote:

Ahh.. what a mess. I've already ordered the 1N4007 but had now clue I would need a 100k/1W as well.
And my led looks like a pilot-light type, not a led like on the current picture. But that's maybe just the housing?
The resistor that came with your kit is 10k/0,25W.

First you need to know the specs on the LED/LAMP you have picked to see if it can possibly even work?

I haven't picked any led, I have to one you supplied with the kit.. So, can you tell me the specs of the led?
(It's green and reading 1576 on my diode-tester.

My VAC is 230V, secondary +-18V.
Wouldn't it be better practice to switch the 230V than the secondaries?

yes if the power transformer is internal but most vintage mic pre builds that have input audio transformers need the power transformer to be external so they do not inject hum. So the switching is often after the power transformer like when wall wart or plug packs are used.

Ok, it's for an ssl9k and Harrison Ford Filter. No transformers

Wouldn't it be a good idea to write this info on the product-page?

No info usually makes people ask first if it will do what they want so we can then tailor there kit to suit there exact needs for free. As switching a power led/lamp across all AC, DC and different voltages will always need different setups or solutions due to the huge possible combinations.

Well, newbie as I am I just thought a kit was a kit. I understand this now, but that's after 2 orders, and still uncompleted..

So, what spec would I need for the led,
for switching 230VAC using an 100k 1W resistor?

G-Sun wrote:So, what spec would I need for the led,
for switching 230VAC using an 100k 1W resistor?

Any normal 3 or 5 or 10mm led that is 50 to 100mcd will work with a 100k 1w like the 3mm red one in the power switch kit.

But I would use a 3 or 5 or 10 high brightness that has 600mcd or higher so a 220k 1/2w can be used and so the resistor will not make any heat.

If putting the led in a old style coloured plastic bezel you will need to use a white LED.

Thanks you!