Regurgitator kit Build Thread

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eirik
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Re: Regurgitator kit Build Thread

Postby eirik » Fri Jul 14, 2017 9:59 pm

So, I just built two regurgitators and missed the point about scoring the underside before breaking them apart.
This resulted in a bit of damage to the prints in one corner, but is it still usable?
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Re: Regurgitator kit Build Thread

Postby Joe Malone » Mon Jul 17, 2017 11:05 am

eirik wrote:So, I just built two regurgitators and missed the point about scoring the underside before breaking them apart.
This resulted in a bit of damage to the prints in one corner, but is it still usable?


Yes all pcb tracks seem to be intact so should work fine.
Joe :-)
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eirik
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Re: Regurgitator kit Build Thread

Postby eirik » Mon Jul 17, 2017 9:59 pm

Thank you Joe, I'll go ahead and install them then.

densom
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Re: Regurgitator kit Build Thread

Postby densom » Mon Aug 07, 2017 10:43 pm

Joe Malone wrote:
sonicwarrior wrote:Looks like a good thing for a DIY 8x DI box:

Which Male XLR or Female XLRs fit the PCB? I have some NC3FD-H and NC3MD-H but it doesn't look like they will fit.


I like DI's to have a 1Meg input impedance so they do not load the instrument at all. So the input impedance is a bit low in the Regurgitaor. Unless you are running mainly active inputs into the DI inputs like synth etc then they would be perfect.


Hi Joe, I am running synths, drum machines and samplers into a mixer with +4dBu line inputs (10KΩ impedance) and mic inputs (3000Ω impedance).
I've always gone straight into the line inputs but I'm exploring some DI options that I will try with some of my -10dBv instruments.

Apart from balancing, would there be other potential benefits running regurgitators as an 8x DI box?

Since DI boxes usually output mic level signals, would I be correct to assume one would use the regurgitator to trim the signal down to a loss and then connect to the mixer's mic inputs?

Thanks.

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Re: Regurgitator kit Build Thread

Postby Joe Malone » Tue Aug 08, 2017 11:37 am

densom wrote:
Joe Malone wrote:
sonicwarrior wrote:Looks like a good thing for a DIY 8x DI box:

Which Male XLR or Female XLRs fit the PCB? I have some NC3FD-H and NC3MD-H but it doesn't look like they will fit.


I like DI's to have a 1Meg input impedance so they do not load the instrument at all. So the input impedance is a bit low in the Regurgitaor. Unless you are running mainly active inputs into the DI inputs like synth etc then they would be perfect.


Hi Joe, I am running synths, drum machines and samplers into a mixer with +4dBu line inputs (10KΩ impedance) and mic inputs (3000Ω impedance).
I've always gone straight into the line inputs but I'm exploring some DI options that I will try with some of my -10dBv instruments.

Apart from balancing, would there be other potential benefits running regurgitators as an 8x DI box?

Since DI boxes usually output mic level signals, would I be correct to assume one would use the regurgitator to trim the signal down to a loss and then connect to the mixer's mic inputs?

Thanks.


Depends on your setup and if it is getting used in lots of venues where mic output can be useful when desks don't have pad switch or just in your studio where you know what your gear can take input wise. Usually best is to just run unity or +6dB from unbalanced to balanced for best noise. But if you use a switch to open the trim pot on the regurgitator pcb you could switch from -18dB for mic output to Unity gain for reasonable line output.
Joe :-)

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countalmaviva
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Hypex UcD34MP amp

Postby countalmaviva » Tue Sep 05, 2017 12:03 am

Hi, Joe,

I'm interested in making this amp usable with unbalanced RCA inputs.

My source will be the MiniDSP 2x4HD, and I found my way here after reading this thread on their forum:

https://www.minidsp.com/forum/hardware- ... p?start=15

Will the Regurgitator be a good fit?

MiniDSP specs:
https://www.minidsp.com/products/minids ... dsp-2x4-hd

Hypex application note:
https://www.hypex.nl/img/upload/doc/ucd ... xMP_R4.pdf

Elsewhere, this board was suggested:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/171970465107?_mwBanner=1

...but I like that the Regurgitator has adjustable gain.

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Re: Hypex UcD34MP amp

Postby Joe Malone » Wed Sep 06, 2017 7:52 am

countalmaviva wrote:Hi, Joe,

I'm interested in making this amp usable with unbalanced RCA inputs.

My source will be the MiniDSP 2x4HD, and I found my way here after reading this thread on their forum:

https://www.minidsp.com/forum/hardware- ... p?start=15

Will the Regurgitator be a good fit?

MiniDSP specs:
https://www.minidsp.com/products/minids ... dsp-2x4-hd

Hypex application note:
https://www.hypex.nl/img/upload/doc/ucd ... xMP_R4.pdf

Elsewhere, this board was suggested:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/171970465107?_mwBanner=1

...but I like that the Regurgitator has adjustable gain.


HI yes regurgitator will work perfect.

You should be able to run them direct from +VAMP, GND Amplifier & -VAMP connections to get between +/-13.64 to 20.29v which is fine for NE5532A opamp. Build regurgitators normally with no zener diodes fitted.

As usual Hypex datasheet is very lacking on needed info :-)

miniDSP out to +in and gnd to 0v & -in for unbalanced input.
Joe :-)

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countalmaviva
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Re: Hypex UcD34MP amp

Postby countalmaviva » Mon Oct 09, 2017 7:29 am

Adventures in my very first electronics kit!

I applied power from the Hypex board and blew R14 and R15. Will obviously replace them. I plan to replace all four 5532s as well, since the one closest to the power connection split in half. (I used the + and - on the output terminal block on the leftmost side in my picture near my index finger.)

I checked all other resistors, and they measured correctly. Caps measure with various resistances, but I'm not sure how to test them. Before connecting, I confirmed that Hypex power is 38.1VDC (e.g. +/-19V).

Didn't fill ZD1 and ZD2...100nF decoupling caps are optional...?

Can anyone suggest reasons this may have happened? For this initial test, I did not connect Hypex "GND Amplifier" to the Regurgitator GND as Joe suggested -- was this my mistake?

Thanks for assistance. Good times almost starting a house fire. :?

Joe Malone wrote:
countalmaviva wrote:Hi, Joe,

I'm interested in making this amp usable with unbalanced RCA inputs.

My source will be the MiniDSP 2x4HD, and I found my way here after reading this thread on their forum:

https://www.minidsp.com/forum/hardware- ... p?start=15

Will the Regurgitator be a good fit?

MiniDSP specs:
https://www.minidsp.com/products/minids ... dsp-2x4-hd

Hypex application note:
https://www.hypex.nl/img/upload/doc/ucd ... xMP_R4.pdf

Elsewhere, this board was suggested:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/171970465107?_mwBanner=1

...but I like that the Regurgitator has adjustable gain.


HI yes regurgitator will work perfect.

You should be able to run them direct from +VAMP, GND Amplifier & -VAMP connections to get between +/-13.64 to 20.29v which is fine for NE5532A opamp. Build regurgitators normally with no zener diodes fitted.

As usual Hypex datasheet is very lacking on needed info :-)

miniDSP out to +in and gnd to 0v & -in for unbalanced input.
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Re: Hypex UcD34MP amp

Postby Joe Malone » Mon Oct 09, 2017 8:23 am

countalmaviva wrote:Adventures in my very first electronics kit!

I applied power from the Hypex board and blew R14 and R15. Will obviously replace them. I plan to replace all four 5532s as well, since the one closest to the power connection split in half. (I used the + and - on the output terminal block on the leftmost side in my picture near my index finger.)

I checked all other resistors, and they measured correctly. Caps measure with various resistances, but I'm not sure how to test them. Before connecting, I confirmed that Hypex power is 38.1VDC (e.g. +/-19V).

Didn't fill ZD1 and ZD2...100nF decoupling caps are optional...?

No zeners and no 100nF is fine with NE5532A

Can anyone suggest reasons this may have happened?

Either reversed +/-19vdc connections to regurg or if power connected correctly a NE5532A fitted backwards to one or more sockets would be the only to ways to burn both R14 & R15 and crack an opamp.

From your photo you have all NE5532A fitted backwards in there sockets. Replace with new and fit them otherway around. Dot or U for pin 1 matches the U end in the overlay. New opamps and 8 x 10R resistors and connect the gnd to 0v and you should be working correctly.

For this initial test, I did not connect Hypex "GND Amplifier" to the Regurgitator GND as Joe suggested -- was this my mistake?

+VAMP to regurg V+, GND Amplifier to regurg 0v & -VAMP to regurg V-.

Leave the gnd discounnected from the 0v on the regurg is not a good idea as it will not work properly but should not damage anything.
Joe :-)

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reiky
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8 ch bi-directional balnced/unbalanced box

Postby reiky » Wed Nov 08, 2017 12:56 am

ciao,

I was considering using the regurgitator as a way to balance the signals from my mixer's insert cables' sends to the 500 chassis and unbalance them back for the insert cables' return.
- first of all, is that possible and correct?
- I'd need 8 for the send and 8 for the return...
- have you got also something to "wrap" them in an enclosure? or any suggestions how to do that?
- have you got something for the power supply, too? or which kind, for 16 regurgitator?

And well, if this is the right way to fix my problem, could you consider building the whole thing? I can do it, but it takes at least double the time for me that do just some soldering now and then, and it would be a first time customizing for the enclosure and for the supply power, so if the cost difference is not that much I could consider having it done for me. You DIY addicts don't laugh that loud, I can hear you!

thanks a lot,

Riccardo

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Re: 8 ch bi-directional balnced/unbalanced box

Postby Joe Malone » Wed Nov 08, 2017 7:40 am

reiky wrote:ciao,

I was considering using the regurgitator as a way to balance the signals from my mixer's insert cables' sends to the 500 chassis and unbalance them back for the insert cables' return.
- first of all, is that possible and correct?
- I'd need 8 for the send and 8 for the return...
- have you got also something to "wrap" them in an enclosure? or any suggestions how to do that?
- have you got something for the power supply, too? or which kind, for 16 regurgitator?

And well, if this is the right way to fix my problem, could you consider building the whole thing? I can do it, but it takes at least double the time for me that do just some soldering now and then, and it would be a first time customizing for the enclosure and for the supply power, so if the cost difference is not that much I could consider having it done for me. You DIY addicts don't laugh that loud, I can hear you!

thanks a lot,

Riccardo


Hi Richardo

Yes 16 regurgitators or 8 dingo pups will do what you want. One of our 48v 15w smps turned down to 36v would run them all on any mains voltage in the world. Or one AC/DCv5 kit with 2 x 18vac 30VA transformer.

This would all fit into a 2 unit high rack case with 8 x TRS insert in and 8 XLR out and 8 XLR in and power on the back.

Usually fully built and tested will usually bring the price to be 2 to 3 x the cost of total parts including all case hardware etc.

If you would like a custom built box quote for this just email me and I will work one out for you.

We laser the text on the front like our normal gear so the custom box is a fully finished one off product with warranty.
Joe :-)

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reiky
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Re: 8 ch bi-directional balnced/unbalanced box

Postby reiky » Thu Nov 23, 2017 10:44 pm

ciao, I wrote you already two emails, maybe they went into the spam (reiky@lowly.net). But basically, I think you have the answer:

-probably the regurgitators for the inputs would be better, so that I could also control the input gain to the 500 devices, and the dingo pups for the outs, in order to save some money (if I understood well each one could get rid of two balanced to unbalanced situations). But that’s probably what you’ve already been thinking.

It’s ok if you can quote an assembled “balanced insert box” and I was just wondering if you could ALSO quote the DIY kit for me to build it:

- all the components needed, power supply (220 volts 50Hz), case and brackets for racking it

- do you think that a 2 units rack could fit more than 8 I/O’s? At the moment I own just seven devices, but they could grow and my mixer has 16 chennels. If this is the case, tell me what could be the extra price for a total of 12/16 channels too.

Thank so much for your time,

Riccardo



Hi Richardo

Yes 16 regurgitators or 8 dingo pups will do what you want. One of our 48v 15w smps turned down to 36v would run them all on any mains voltage in the world. Or one AC/DCv5 kit with 2 x 18vac 30VA transformer.

This would all fit into a 2 unit high rack case with 8 x TRS insert in and 8 XLR out and 8 XLR in and power on the back.

Usually fully built and tested will usually bring the price to be 2 to 3 x the cost of total parts including all case hardware etc.

If you would like a custom built box quote for this just email me and I will work one out for you.

We laser the text on the front like our normal gear so the custom box is a fully finished one off product with warranty.[/quote]

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Re: Regurgitator kit Build Thread

Postby Joe Malone » Fri Nov 24, 2017 8:23 am

HI Ricardo
Sorry for the delay but it is the crazy busy end of year with emails peaking at 200 a day so can not keep up with them for the next few weeks to Xmas

I read your answer (below) and I think you perfectly got to the point. Probably the regurgitators for the inputs would be better, so that I could also control the input gain to the 500 devices, and the dingo pups for the outs, in order to save some money (if I understood well each one could get rid of two balanced to unbalanced situations). But that’s probably what you’ve already been thinking.


[Joe] I would use all regurgitators or dingo pup not a combo. Regurgitators are the way if you want to be able to adjust in and out levels

It’s ok if you can quote my “balanced insert box” and I was just wondering if you could also quote the complete kit for me to build it:
- all the components needed, power supply (220 volts 50Hz), case and brackets for racking it. So that I could decide if the price ’s too high for the already assembled box to spend my winter evenings soldering (temperature has already lowered down, here...)


[Joe] You can do this with (2 x 8 way regurgitators) 8 in and 8 out and 15w 48v smps + power switch kit + 16 TRS sockets + IEC fuse power inlet. Cost about $560AUD. Or $995AUD with machined lasered text rack case+ shipping. Or for custom 2 unit high rack built and tested to spec $1595AUD

- do you think that a 2 units rack could fit more I/O’s? At the moment I own just seven devices, but they could grow and my mixer has 16 chennels. If this is the case, tell me what could be the price for 12/16 channels too.


[Joe] Could maybe fit a second layer of 8 in and out but would get down to fitting the in and outs on the rear panel
Joe :-)

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tlhpsound
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Powering Regurgitator Kit

Postby tlhpsound » Fri Aug 24, 2018 11:54 am

Hello

I have very basic questions. How can I power Regurgitator Kit? Should I connect a DC positive, negative and ground to the pin 5, 1 and 4 of the output header? No need to connect pin 1, 4 and 5 of the input header? What are for J1 and J2 Side bar headers?

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Re: Powering Regurgitator Kit

Postby Joe Malone » Fri Aug 24, 2018 5:44 pm

tlhpsound wrote:Hello

I have very basic questions. How can I power Regurgitator Kit? Should I connect a DC positive, negative and ground to the pin 5, 1 and 4 of the output header? No need to connect pin 1, 4 and 5 of the input header? What are for J1 and J2 Side bar headers?


Yes Regurg can run on symmetrical power rails like +/-12v to +/-18v wired to +V 0v -V with no zener diodes fitted. Can run on +/-24v with OPA2604AP.

Regurg can also run on single +24v with 2 x 12v zeners diodes fitted or +36v with 2 x 18v zener diodes fitted. When using single rail with zeners only audio signal 0v is wired to 0v on the regurg pcb. Power only connects to the +V & -V.

J1 & J2 are power rail bussing and are connected between up to 8 regurg pcbs if pcbs are not separated. So only power need be applied to one regurg to power the 8 pack. See images in first post of this thread.

Moved this post to the regurgitator build thread.
Joe :-)

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